Kenya – http://www.bike2013.com with Tour D'Afrique 2013 Tue, 14 May 2013 08:20:56 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.1 Day 48, 118km to Arusha http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/12/day-48-118km-to-arusha/ Tue, 12 Mar 2013 08:55:53 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4863 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Welcome to Tanzania! Today we crossed the border to our 5th country. These border crossings are getting easier.
Humidity was high, but we didn’t get rain overnight. It may be start of the rainy season which could get interesting for upcoming off-road sections. It was only 4km from camp to the border. Filled out my yellow form to exit Kenya and my blue form to enter Tanzania. Got the requisite stamps and payed $100 visa fee and I was done. I also exchanged shillings (Kenya) for shillings (Tanzania). This task took perhaps an extra hour but then I was back on smooth roads going into Tanzania. We had some gentle grades and wide sweeping views.

[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Stopped at 30km with a few others at local village, partially to see new rate of what a drink costs.

[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
It got warmer after this and at 60km we had some climbs. The climb continued through lunch at 71km and then came to top of the hill at 81km. Here we had slight downhill before descending into Arusha around 108km. Arusha is larger sprawling city and we went through town for 10km or so.
Five of us are signed up for a safari tour for next three days. I don’t have cell coverage yet, so may be a while before everything is posted.

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Day 47, 156km to Namanga http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/11/day-47-156km-to-namanga/ Mon, 11 Mar 2013 08:46:03 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4859 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Today was a fun, though long ride. The first 60km different from the remaining 100km. We started from camp on smaller roads and heading “outbound” from Nairobi. Rows of cars backed up the other way heading into the city and not leaving much passing room on the narrow road. By 5km there came some breaks in traffic and we then came through populated areas until 18km where we had a turnoff onto quieter rural road.

The pavement started ok, but became rougher as we rode along. At 42km the pavement disappeared entirely for next 6km of gravel. After this smooth roads until we met up with main highway at 55km.

The remaining road to Namanga was very good surface and reasonably wide. The shoulders weren’t very rideable, but traffic gave us some room. The grades were rolling. Stopped for lunch at 70km and then back on this road past a few villages including one at 120km where locals had mixture of traditional Masai tribal dress and western locos (e.g. Houston Astros).
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]

The last 40km was straightforward ride into camp. The road was wet and it had rained recently. I missed the rain, though those slightly faster got hit with deluge of rain. Those even faster got the rain while in camp. A tougher day but enjoyed the riding today.

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Rest day in Nairobi http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/10/rest-day-in-nairobi/ Sun, 10 Mar 2013 10:34:35 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4622 Continue reading ]]> Quiet rest day in Nairobi. Only one cycling day since our four days off in Nanyuki and just two cycling days until Arusha so mid trip slowdown of sorts. We do have ~20 new riders joining here so also fun.

Otherwise there is a mall not far from camp. Has a huge department store as well as food court with wifi. Also a Kentucky Fried Chicken. As big a place as we’ve seen in past few months.

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Day 46 substitute, another bus ride http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/09/day-46-substitute-another-bus-ride/ Sat, 09 Mar 2013 12:48:10 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4604 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
The election board has announced the results of election with winner receiving 50.07% of the vote, barely 8000 votes over the threshold needed to avoid a runoff. It was known that results would be announced today and that many might flock to Nairobi. Hence, we were back on bus today and are now camped on outskirts of Nairobi. We have rest day tomorrow and I hope we can then cycle on Monday. Observing the election is interesting but happier on the bike.

Last night our preliminary plans were to bicycle the first 50km to lunch and then get on buses instead of cycling our convoy into Nairobi. However, that was before it was final that election results would be announced this morning. With that updated information and advice that people could flock to Nairobi for the celebrations/protests of the results – we ended up being on bus instead. This morning we stayed at our nice whitewater/kayak camp and then had lunch before boarding two overland trucks for trip to Nairobi.
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Compared to our earlier buses, this was all pretty easy and all on paved roads. There were a few hills starting out and then it became flatter. Meanwhile we went from two-lane road to four lanes and then six and eight lanes as the highway became busier approaching Nairobi. We saw some supporters of the new president with trademark red “TNA” (also known as Jubilee) shirts. However, we didn’t really see large groups collected together. Without too much difficulty we found ourselves on the overland camp for our rest day here in Nairobi.

We are in outskirts of town, though there is a large mall pretty close to here with all familiar comforts.
Photo below tells you several things about where we’re at:

  • Gasoline is approximately $5 per gallon
  • The Libyan oil company still has stations here
  • There is pizza delivery, grilled chicken and other pizza

[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
As a whole it feels like a richer area than places we’ve been.

We’ve been resting for a while, so not as much need to clean or do laundry but still a chance to regroup before what hopefully will be bicycle departure to Tanzania on Monday. I’ve already been to the mall and like many Kenyans stopped and listened to president elect make his victory speech as well as the opposition make a (graceful but not conciliatory) speech still challenging the results. I have already noticed some occasional election posters coming down, so hopefully post-results period will be at least as calm as while Kenya waited for results.

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Day 45, 103km to Sagana camp http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/08/day-45-103km-to-sagana-camp/ Fri, 08 Mar 2013 12:37:28 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4603 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
On the road again!! Landscapes have definitely changed since we were last on the bike in Northern Kenya.

With exception of occasional potholes, the road is well paved though without much in way of paved shoulders. Traffic is busier and hence we need to keep out for passing traffic both from behind and from ahead. Overall, vehicles do at least take care to safely pass.

We see coffee, tea, bananas and other tropical fruits. Along the road we even saw fruit stands with variety of fruits. Overall, the area appears more prosperous. People are friendly, and less reserved than the Masaii in Northern Kenya but also more willing to engage.

Today started with a synchronized start at the equator. We stopped for a group photo with the equator sign. Photo below shows the pile of cameras that all needed to get that photo, so instead I got the photo of the picture takers (I’m sure I can link to an official equator shot :)). Also here were pitchers the locals used to “illustrate the Coriolis effect”.
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
The next 20-30km as well as much of the day I would categorize as going along Mt Kenya. This 5000+ meter peak on our left, we went along some gentle ups and downs as we crossed into different drainages. I stopped briefly at 22km for coke stop and then we passed through town of Chaka at 48km with a number of roadside vendors. After this point, the hills became a bit shorter and steeper. We also passed along some chicken processors.
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
At 57km was a left turn and then a few hills before lunch at 60km. In photo above, Adele, the afternoon sweep gets her bike ready. The next 9km also hilly but then we reached an area with mostly descents as we the road had long declines. This was also the area with some curio shops and the fruit stands along the way. I was even surprised to see someone set out a series of chairs for sale. An indication that we’re coming closer to urban areas.
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
At 101km we turned off and then 2km of rough road to our camp. We’re camped at a “whitewater camp” with kayaks, swimming pool but especially nice is good lawn for camping.
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]

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Another quiet rest day in Nanyuki http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/07/another-quiet-rest-day-in-nanyuki/ http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/07/another-quiet-rest-day-in-nanyuki/#comments Thu, 07 Mar 2013 08:07:26 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4599 Continue reading ]]> Kenya still awaits results of the presidential election. Following BBC article is a good summary: BBC article. The following NPR article also interesting: NPR article.\

The election commission is manually counting votes and has said not to expect a pronouncement before Friday. The TV stations are still in an endless loop showing the last results they had – some of which are stale after electronic transmission failed and updates halted on Tuesday. With latest election commission ruling to count “spoiled ballots” as part of the total ballots cast, it will be more difficult for one candidate to have 50% of the total and hence more likely for this to continue for a while into an April runoff.

Otherwise, things appear very calm, both locally in Nanyuki and what we see in the media. At dinner tonight I’m sure we’ll get our next update but I’m hopeful that we’ll be back on our bikes and cycling tomorrow :). [Update: we ride tomorrow, hooray!]

From here it is two cycling days to Nairobi, one rest day there and then two cycling days to Arusha, Tanzania. We have a three day rest in Arusha including chance to find local tour operator for more traditional Africa wildlife safari.

For another for fun link, here is Tour D’Afrique’s summary of our equator party. It was a costume party and I decided to go as a collage of African countries we had cycled in: a head scarf for Egypt/Sudan, a Fly Emirates jersey for Sudanese/Ethiopian kids, a stick for Ethiopia, election posters for Kenya and a hula hoop for the equator.

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Day hike in Mt Kenya National Park http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/06/4596/ Wed, 06 Mar 2013 17:29:52 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4596 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Today eight riders including myself went to Mt Kenya National Park for a day hike. We hired a guide (the way things are done here) and got a minibus ride to the park gate at elevation 2650 meters. From here we hiked 9km up to Moses Camp (traditionally the first camp if you are climbing) at elevation 3300 meters. We then hiked 3km further to a ridge at approximately 3850 meters of elevation. Hence, our total distance was ~15 miles (24km) with an elevation gain of ~4000ft (1200m).

It was a fun hike, though walking back was surprised at how long the return seemed. We got some good views of Mt Kenya as well as trail hiking without devoting our entire rest period to a summit hike. The highest summit that is non-technical is 4985 meters high. Overall a fun though longer day. Some images of the hike below:

The entrance gate
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We crossed the equator, sun was better on the Northern Hemisphere side of the sign but we actually crossed north to south
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]

Hiking started on a road
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Highest point (still a ways to the real peaks)
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]

Baboon on the way back
[See image gallery at bike2013.com]

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Quiet day in Nanyuki http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/05/quiet-day-in-nanyuki/ Tue, 05 Mar 2013 11:52:32 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4587 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Today a quiet rest day in Nanyuki. Just past the town limits is the equator sign shown above. Nearby are a number of shops with sellers eager to fulfill every need you might have for carvings, beads and other Kenya things a tourist might desire.

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Election day in Nanyuki http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/04/election-day-in-nanyuki/ Mon, 04 Mar 2013 16:31:30 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4583 Continue reading ]]> Election day in Nanyuki. Today was a quiet day in town as we waited out the Kenya election. Overall a relaxing day with some bike maintenance on the drive chain as well as patching that slow leak in my back tire. I also updated my “Plan” page with likely plans after we arrive in Cape Town (still a ways to go for that as we’ve cycled just 40% of the distance so far).

Now watching the live results of the election on TV (one candidate seems to be over 50% of early vote returns with 2.5% counted but we don’t know where those votes are from). In Nanyuki voting all seemed pretty orderly:

  • There was a large park block in town. Along one side of the park was a row of tents marked alphabetically by “stream” and then first name. I understood stream to be similar to last name.
  • Lined in front of these tents were half a dozen lines each with at least a hundred people carefully waiting their turn. Unlike the political rallies, I didn’t see much in way of bright campaign colors, e.g. orange, yellow or red. The TV tells us that overall voter turnout was 86% of registered voters (14.3 million registered voters, 33,000 poling stations, ~100,000 police). Don’t know about rest of the country, but Nanyuki looked very orderly. Polls were apparently open from 6am to 5pm. Once people credentials were compared with registration, they voted and then had their index fingers marked with indelible ink.
  • Talked with one man who showed me his marked index finger and asked if I had voted. Told him I wasn’t Kenyan and hence it wouldn’t make sense for outsiders like me to vote. He laughed and observed I probably would be a Odinga supported (I could have the coalition wrong but it was opposite of his favorite).
  • Shops and businesses in town were mostly closed. A few cafes and local supermarket were open. However, most banks and other shops seemed to be closed today for the election.
  • Voters were asked to vote in six different positions: president, parliament representative, women’s representative, senator, governor, senator and county representative. There are eight presidential contenders with two leading candidates (Kenyatta from Jubilee coalition and Odinga from Cord coalition). If any presidential candidate receives 50.1% of the vote and at least 25% in half the counties, they win outright. Otherwise there is a runoff.
  • The election commission has up to seven days to declare a winner, but has promised to deliver results within 48 hours. TV stations also have live results coming in in the evening as I’m watching them.
  • US embassy had a twitter feed and mid-day was reporting only isolated violence in north east and along the coast. The newspaper reports that British government had previously sent message calming fears and advising tourists and expats to go about their daily routines normally, while the US government had issued more cautionary notes prior to the election. Newspaper has big editorial asking winners to be magnanimous and losers not to be sore losers – and pointing out how much the country can lose economically with poor election response. Stock and currency markets were apparently positive as investors guessed the election would go well.

First reports coming in are presidential level, but over time these will start getting broken down by county as well as showing the other races. We still have some time before the results really start coming in as well as seeing how the country reacts. However, what I can see and read from Nanyuki looks encouraging so far of this election being a process with high level of interest but also being conducted orderly fashion.

Tomorrow more shops should be open and look forward to venturing further, e.g. to find and cross the equator which is just a few km south of town.

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Bus trip day two to Nanyuki (replaces cycling days 42, 43 and 44) http://www.bike2013.com/2013/03/03/bus-trip-day-two-to-nanyuki/ Sun, 03 Mar 2013 17:58:32 +0000 http://www.bike2013.com/?p=4544 Continue reading ]]> [See image gallery at bike2013.com]
Today was second part of our bus adventure as we skipped ahead to town of Nanyuki. As described in yesterdays post, Kenya hold national elections tomorrow. We expect things to remain peaceful as those results are announced but have taken precautions to watch out the results before continuing the cycle trip on the road. We’re in a nice town of Nanyuki on slopes of Mount Kenya. Next few days will explore this area further.

Today the bus ride was 350km, but fortunately only ~120km of this was on very rough roads. Some of this is a mixed blessing as it would have been some challenging cycling to ride the first bit on rough pavement. What surprised me today was how much the landscapes changed. It definitely feels like we’re not in northern Kenya anymore but now in a more prosperous, less tribal and more lush part of the country.

Initially from Marsabit we came around bend into some rough roads and just a few km down the road came past two elephants grazing off to the left. The landscape gradually became drier and drier again. Road was still rough and took us almost two hours for the first 50km where we made our first stop. A small village, desert oasis. Election posters were up but one of the locals was willing to explain several things: this was tribal and this village (and tribe) was voting for the ERP candidate who they saw as leading. In addition to ERP there was “Cord” coalition and some smaller parties as well. He thought tribal didn’t make the most sense – but this is how it was. When I mentioned I was from USA, he asked if we were similarly tribal (my answer, no the politicians fight over other things). He also noted that Obama’s father was from Kenya, though from a different tribe than his tribe.

After our desert stop, we continued on rough roads to Liamisis just shy of 100km. Again still dry area though slightly larger town. We came through town and stopped for lunch. Here were more people in Masai tribal dress. We saw a pair of ostriches along this part of the route.

Fortunately about 15km after Liamisis we came to new paved road and our speed increased. In addition to the road getting better, the area soon became more lush and more developed. By Isolio there was enough change with crops such as corn and later wheat beginning to appear. Shops looked more prosperous, more people but not as much election stuff in proportion. We also started a climb from here slowly in the bus as we drove up to Nanyuki.

Nanyuki looks like an interesting town to explore further. We’re about 3km from the equator, on side of Mt Kenya and its national park and otherwise the town looks larger than we’ve seen before. This is a bit of a tourist area and we have good camp site at a local hotel here. I’ve gotten a hotel room here with plans of updating blog and internet over the next few rest days. Also will see how well the bike did on the bus ride. Otherwise a chance to relax and get set up for the trip ahead. So far the internet connection is very sluggish but hopefully this is our group overloading things with uploads…

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