Day 29, 85km to Gorge Camp


Another good day cycling Ethiopia. Today we crossed 3104m high (10,180ft) our highest point on the TDA ride overall.

It was windy last night, could hear it rustling through the trees. This meant some headwinds today as well. We started riding across a village right after leaving camp. This was a general theme as we crossed many of these villages today. I am still amazed to see many of these villages with painted crosswalks, blissfully ignored by everyone walking the road, animals crossing wherever and general chaos on the roads.


At 25km a larger town and a quick coke stop. After this at 35km we started climbing with a solid climb at 40km. Fortunately a lunch stop at 49km. Look carefully at child with red shirt on right and you’ll see “Obama” printed on the shirt. While not as common as “Fly Emirates” shirts that seem to be everywhere, there are also some Obama shirts seen occasionally.

Lunch was close to top of the hill and at near 53km we crested the hill and then came down past a large Chinese concrete factory that was just below the top of the hill.


At about 67km our descent started across another town and then close to edge of the gorge at 85km. We were camped beside the road, but not far from village with restaurant and wonderful views down to gorge below. As shown in photo above, some riders also took opportunity to watch a film.

Day 28, 89km to Goha Tsion (Blue Nile Gorge)


Today we crossed the Blue Nile Gorge. 4000ft of descent down to the bridge and then same climb up the other side. There was a total of 50km of prelude prior to the gorge that was rolling with some road construction. I knew I would be slower climbing up the gorge so made choice to ride truck to lunch and then get going before it got too hot. I also hadn’t been feeling 100% the night before. In hindsight, that was the right choice.

The first 50k were flatter but also had some pieces of bad road and some road construction. Eventually the roads here will be wonderful, but may take a while. This area continued to be farming areas and I am always amazed at loads some women seem to carry on their heads and backs.

I was thus as lunch as it was set up. Ate my lunch and descended down the hill. It was slow and easy with occasional stops. This brought me through one or two villages. The road had a few rough spots including some with brief pieces of gravel/dirt.


At the bottom I was first to the bridge. I was first to leave and start the climb. Saw several baboons near the bottom. The first 5km were slow steady and warm. At 5km, I walked some and found that at least as comfortable. I then alternated some of both and had a coke stop at 10km from bottom. From here a slow steady climb and found myself at camp at 36km. Yeah! Tomorrow plan is to cross 3100m and the highest point on TDA ride.

Day 27, 117km to Forest Camp


Today 117km of distance with 1800m of climb and 1400km of descent. I slept well in the tent and was ready to go.

Our first 20km were flat and even some downhill! At 32km we started a first longer climb. Fortunately it was still cool so I could put the bike in low gear and slowly ride the hill. The views were nice as we looked over the countryside. After this a village or two as we dropped into the next valley. Kids were better behaved today. I also saw two instances that looked like entire classrooms moving the second carrying chairs as well.



Some kids would say “money” or “birr”. I tried a few different ways of responding: either ignore it or instead saying “hello” but not sure yet on the best responses.

Lunch was at top of a long hill. I had some difficulty eating more than half a sandwich. The afternoon we had slight descent and then climbed across Debra Markos town, one of the large towns we’ve crossed (other than Bahir Dar or Gondor). At entrance you could see several hotels listed. In general, small hotels seem to be more plentiful here than further north.

The road out of Debre Markos was a bit rough, so even though downhill still tiring ride. We had a steeper descent at 109km and then at 113km the road turned to gravel construction. It had been long hot day with a lot of climbing so walked some of the gravel road. We had last few km of climb into camp and I was thoroughly tired at end of day but also with a smile on my face.

Day 26, 162km to Bush Camp


Our ride showed three rather challenging days to start from Bahir Dar: 162km, “mando day” and then Gorge day. I had enough energy after our rest day in Bahir Dar, but decided also to save some energy and ride to lunch today (85km).

It was a beautiful ride through wooded and farming areas. There were even a few places without people around. The first 5km brought us out of town. After this some slow gradual climbs and descents but nothing very steep. Kids were also well behaved this morning. Photo below is of one of the shrines seen along the route.


At 20km we crossed our first village. This village had two things I hadn’t seen much before: occasional small hotels and also local bikes with “bike shops” along the road. We had seen some local bikes but not as many before. At 37km was the first coke stop and several friendly and polite locals were watching. After this more grades to cross and also more trees than before. Without much trouble was into lunch at 85km.

Our camp is close to a village with many curious locals to observe us (and us them). One local rider got a soccer ball in Bahir Dar and donated it and a whistle to kids, so they are also keeping busy with that. As we are in more populated areas, we now also have “toilet tents” shown below. Holes have been dug in the tent and get some privacy though the tents can also get messy.

Rest Day Bahir Dar

On this rest day, I rested. On Lake Tana there are supposed to be some interesting monasteries and several hour boat trips to see them. However, decided instead to tune up the bike and then wander around town. I spent some time in the market which is fun to see. Below are some quick photos of Bahir Dar

The main streets of Bahir Dar are wide with median separating traffic. There are sidewalks and even crosswalks that people use, quick a contrast with villages we’ve crossed before. Quite a few different shops, sometimes with shops of a single type grouped together.

Off the main street I found a narrow “sewing ally”. All these tailors each with their sewing machine.

Getting to main market you find more stalls with spices and grains.

The main market squares open up, a bit dusty and warm during the day.

TDA truck parked at left as the cooks are off doing their shopping for upcoming days. Foods they prepare are come from what they find in markets like this.

Thought this collection of child backpacks was interesting including a “barbie” backpack and one from “US AID”.

Back on the main street found these folks clustered around a large board. As I looked closer, these were all “help wanted” postings for various employment.

Ethiopia is known for its coffee, freshly ground and roasted.

Otherwise a relaxing day. The days ahead should be challenging. We start with a 160km day, with some Ethiopian hills thrown in for sure; followed by a “mando” day; followed by “the Gorge”, 1600m of descent over 12km followed by the equivalent climb (in time trial) up the other side. So otherwise saving some energy and getting ready for the ride.

Day 25, 61km to Bahir Dar


Only 61km made today an easy and enjoyable ride. Last night we had camped in vacant field in agricultural area.

On the ride first thing this morning we traveled through a village. Air was cool and most people were headed towards the village. Some with loads on their heads, others bringing donkeys laden with goods. Kids running along, as if heading to school. Most everything going to that little village and in middle you could see the extra bustle. The air had a whiff of smoke. Not sure if these are wood fires or dung fires, but I’ve seen both carefully stacked dried dung piles (think brown lumpy frisbees in a pile), but also people carrying large amounts of firewood sticks as well. The wood surprises me some, since I would have expected with some many people they would be de-foresting more of the area.


After passing through the village the route went up and down over some low hills and then across a large open area. After this we slowly climbed again. Climbs on this part are easier than road from Metama in part because the road is more uniformly graded. If it climbs, it climbs at 5%-5%-4%-5%… instead of 12%-2%-9%-3%, etc. On this next stretch I had a rock hit me, didn’t even see the kid throwing it. These rocks are a but unfortunate, but subject of a later post and I still can mostly defuse the setup if I see the kids.

Saw a few different agricultural items today as well. Longer deep trenches. Not sure why and not quite irrigation with how then would go down the hills but deliberately dug. Also saw a few pigs running along. Adding to the staple of goats, donkeys and horses.

A slow climb over this hill and then across again. Each hill and each bend in the road brought something new. At around 40km, saw a cluster of riders surrounded by a large mob of curious locals. Coke stop! So, I stopped as well and paid 8 birr for a Pepsi. It was fun answering questions and interacting.

After this brief stop a final ride across the Blue Nile exit from Lake Tana and then into Bahir Dar. Without much difficulty found my way to our stop. This was at a hotel. Those camping do so on the terrace roof of the hotel and others got rooms. Since I had a room in Gondar and that was just two days ago, decided for camping this time. Seems to be an issue with shower water, but should get sorted out soon. Now a chance to rest and be a tourist again before a challenging five day ride series.

Photo below is Yanez, normally assistant cook (and not a cyclist) but riding in today.

Next photo is waterfall on Blue Nile that we visited (by a tour bus arranged by one of the riders)

Day 24, 115km to farm camp


Beautiful ride today. The grades were easier on this road than from Metema. For example, though we had two reasonable climbs today, the grades stayed a more consistent 5% than bouncing between 3% and 12%. Hence, I could put the bike in low gear and slowly ride up the hill. When not in steeper climbs or descents, the road generally rolled with very little that was actually flat.

We went through agricultural areas with hay, some corn, cane and some other crops I didn’t recognize. There are still many goats and the donkey is the general beast of burden so far. We crossed several small villages to keep things interesting.

Started the day with 14km of mostly descent coming across and then down from Gondar to the road intersection from Metema. After this passed the airport and all new road to us. In early morning saw many kids with school books. As we left the city the terrain was rolling with at least as much down as up. Some kids and most were even friendly. By 44km we came into a valley and started a gradual climb as we crossed a larger village. After this the first steeper climb over a ridge and on other side was lunch.


It was a little warmer after lunch, but temperatures at 2000m are nothing like we had in Sudan. I stopped briefly when saw a commotion ahead surrounding two New Zealand riders. One had a flat and was fixing it. I came in and helped keep some of the kids back otherwise fixing a flat becomes more fun with ~30 kids around poking and crowding to see how it is done.

Not much later was a coke stop with several others at 80km. It was well placed since here was also the second larger climb of the day. On other side a good descent to 96km and right turn into the wind. Still pretty agricultural areas where started seeing larger haystacks and also some large square barns. At one point a car was stopped as occupants were busy strapping down a sheep to the roof that might have gotten loose. A bit much for me since the sheep was still alive.

We camped at vacant field off a road intersection. It was little past three and so nice ride overall. As was case in Ethiopia, our camp was marked with a red perimeter line. Watchful villagers from the area where outside looking in at the overall commotion as our group arrived.

After dinner, myself and two others were on pot scrub duty. This duty rotates amongst the riders and isn’t particularly onerous as only after a month did it rotate to me.

Gondar rest day #2

Today a second rest day in Gondar and chance to be a tourist. In particular on my list was the royal enclosure wall that surrounded six different castles built in the 1600s and 1700s. Also the Debre Berhan Selassie Church with painted ceiling and walls. However, also fun just to walk through and see different places in town. Below are a few images visiting Gondar.

Gondar Castle


Debre Berhan Selassie Church



Delicious fruit drink


Jimmy Buffet fans would like Ethiopia. The traditional clock times start at what would be 6am on a US clock. Hence, the clock above is actually a little past our 11am in the morning.

Warrior statue downtown

Many things can be bought on the street, in this case coffins.

Simple housing but with a satellite dish.

Even simpler housing on side of a hill

TDA has also posted our upcoming schedule which includes two days cycling, a rest day, five days cycling to reach Addis Adaba. Ethiopia is hilly so this should be challenging. I once again have a local SIM card. I don’t know yet whether the data network is as good as Sudan or Egypt so will need to see how many updates I can do from the road.

Gondar rest day #1, reflections on Sudan

Rest days are a chance to get everything caught up. There is bike maintenance such as cleaning and also lubing the chain. The mechanics hold “bike shop hours” and so brought my bike in. My trek bike has a front suspension with a “lockout” cable that keeps it in fixed place. Unfortunately this cable had come loose and so the suspension was also going on flat road. We tightened things again, though the #2 set screw might be becoming stripped. Will see how it goes from here. The photo below shows the “remote speed lockout” mechanism, the part that might be stripped is a set screw that fits inside the hole to left of the bottom allen bolt for the cap.


The medics also hold “clinic” so folks can stop by with questions, nothing needed there. With two rest days, can take it easy now but might then go down into town after mid-day.

Before I lose the overview, also provide a few overview comments on Sudan and how it was different from both Egypt preceding and Ethiopia following:

  • We spent a total of thirteen cycling days and two rest days in Sudan.
  • Sudan is difficult to get into (at least for westerners) and also don’t have sense of many tourists. That is nice in many ways as locals haven’t quite built up much dependency on tourists (e.g. in Egypt when tourist industry is down, those dependent on it were pretty aggressive on drumming up business). In Ethiopia it seems like they see enough tourists so they will “charge what the market will bear”, whether it is 8 birr for a coke or 40 birr. In contrast it was consistently 2 or 3.
  • It felt a bit like we saw three different slices of Sudan:
    • The northern seven days of cycling were deserts with much sand and rock. Houses were square with low mud walls. There wasn’t much agriculture. Many more mosques here and even smallest towns would have a minaret tower and even in some of the desert camps we could hear call to prayer. Dongola in center of this area also was very Muslim and shut down on Friday.
    • Khartoum was the big city. We were in middle of ministry and central business district. Many more passenger cars crowding in and buildings were several stories
    • The Southern parts were more agricultural. Buildings were still mud/adobe but more likely round. There were more people than in north and they did some farming and herding. The three days of off road cycling brought us through these smallest places – very few other tourists here. We saw some mosques but nighttime noises were more likely animals than calls to prayer.
  • Overall, Sudanese people were friendly but just a bit reserved. This made it easy to travel and stop. There were also less of them and less aggressive kids than Ethiopia (so far) and Egypt. Overall enjoyed my travels through Sudan and glad to have seen this.

Day 23, 60 of 107km to Gondar


have arrived in Gondar and now have a double rest day here. Internet is very slow, but hopefully mostly an influx of cyclists all trying to access at same time, but will try next two days to get things updated. Today was a “mando” day, which is short for mandatory. This means that official racers need to ride the day as it can’t be one of the five “grace” days that are allowed. Mando days are typically tougher than other days and for today that meant 2500m of climbing.

For me I decided to take it just a little easier and ride the first 60km to lunch. It still took me until almost 1pm but I really enjoyed the ride. Ethiopia is built on sides of hills and today was no different. There are people everywhere: in villages, walking the road and otherwise observing. In addition the road also has many donkeys, people herding goats/cows/donkeys across it. Hence, vigilance is always required particularly on the hills.

We have also shifted to a “thin red line” approach to camp and lunch stops. What this means is that staff has surrounded the camp with a red cord that is staked around our outside perimeter. Locals are hired and then kids and other locals are requested to stay outside the red line. It makes for an interesting combination. For example, last night some riders had decided to play a movie on a portable player (the Lion King). They were sitting just inside the red line and outside of the line were a cluster of half a dozen kills carefully observing.


This morning I packed all up and got on the road from camp. We were informed of substantial climbing over a large hill before lunch and then descent with climb into Gondar City itself. Almost immediately the climbing began, short little climbs that my computer said 10% or 12%. After a few hills, came down to a river at 12km and a nearby village. The kids were all out yelling at us as we passed (most common: “you you you”, “hello”, “where you go here”, “money”). Some riders have has occasional difficulty with sticks or rocks, but so far I’ve been lucky. I do try to pre-emptively yell out the “hello” and “salaamno” and other greetings.

After that 12km mark, we had a short 2km climb posted. In middle of road was a tanker truck that was disabled and apparently had been there for three years just blocking one lane. After the climb finished a descent and then from 19km to 35km the major climb began. Fortunately, this one was closer to 5-6% grade so I could put it in low gear and slowly grind up it. I did however make a coke stop along the way. On the top, you could see back what we’d climb and eventually into next descent, so this felt like a real accomplishment.

The descent was fun and lasted most of the way down to 50km with only a few short (steep) interruptions. After this some gentle climb and descent along the way and found my way to lunch by 1pm. There were nine of us riding in the truck from lunch. After long and challenging morning was right thing for me. Still was a wait until everyone assembled and then we got up to the Goha hotel.

The hotel is nice. I’ve already had nice good shower (though it did overflow onto the floor). With two days, I’ll do a bit of bike maintenance and otherwise recover from eight tough days on the road (more to tell you about in a bit :)). However, Ethiopia is completely different than Sudan was and a rather interesting contrast.

Photo below shows me before my shower. Surprisingly most of that brown was tan and didn’t rub off in the shower.