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Day 13, 143km to Desert Camp

Posted on January 28, 2013 by mev

Sandstorm! Second half of the day we cycled through blowing and drifting sand. Again blessed by tailwinds. However, now sand everywhere and quite dirty.

Day started with normal light tailwind. The first 50km were a settled region and there were also local passenger cars on the road (unlike some places earlier). A 48km we crossed a big roundabout and headed into a 300k cutoff across the desert to Khartoum. Fortunately, our winds mostly shifted with us. Unfortunately, also picked up sand and started to get in the eyes. Lunch was quick and then a whole crew huddled from the wind at 115km coke stop. We realized camp probably wouldn’t be more pleasant.

However, eventually one by one back on the road and that last 25km to camp. As expected, high winds. Perhaps could wait to set up the tent? Eventually a little before dinner, with some help got the tent set up. After dinner, got in the tent to anchor it and heard the winds blow away. After having previous camera get sand-logged, decided to be a little more careful with pictures this time.

Day 12, 140km to Dead Camel Camp

Posted on January 27, 2013 by mev

Rested and ready to go, we set off in morning south from Dongola. Once again, beautiful smooth road, this time with villages and river on our left. It seemed we have shifted from more rocky desert to more sandy desert. I also saw some collections of live camels and also a few dead ones along the road.

We had tailwinds starting out, so again smooth riding. Wee! It was easy way to reach lunch by 11am. Fortunately we also had fewer flies today.

After lunch, the road shifted and we had more mixture of winds including some head winds. It also got warm again. I saw a huge pod of camels and others had seen them cross. I’ve been able to post updates with mobile phone and was able to refresh at 97km and then came into our named “Dead Camel Camp” grinding out the last 40km. Fortunately, in evening more pleasant temperatures. Also nearby a small mosque that seemed to be mostly unused, though still ready for service. Also a big road grader.

Dongola rest day

Posted on January 26, 2013 by mev

Mark Zuckerberg would be proud. In Sudan we’re told asking for “facebook” is at least as recognizable as asking for “internet”. We’ve reached regional city of Dongola and have day to rest, wash and recharge before cycling on to Khartoum.

I’ve got more complete posts and photos for Sudan riding days, but will need Wifi before I can post them. However, have enjoyed riding in Sudan so far, though it is getting a bit warmer. It took us five hours to clear immigration and customs into Sudan from the boat, but once in, it is a bit different world here. Wadi Halfa reminded me a bit of the dry desert planet from “Star Wars”, though without the lively bar scene. Definitely an end of the world place.

From there we’ve had one tough day of riding and two medium days. Roughly corresponding with days, the landscapes changed as follows:

Initially, we cycled parallel but not in view of the Nile. Mostly dry desert scenery, with just an occasional settlement. Gold mining towns we were told. Our first day had some tailwinds and while longest at 149km, was still medium riding. It was nice to soak in the river, though we also got our introduction to these small buzzing flies.
After this, we more closely paralleled the Nile. There would be more settlements to our right. Unlike Egypt where even smallest towns might have two story buildings, here everything was single story, often surrounded by mud walls. Tallest here would be local mosque with minaret. We still cut across desert areas, but our proximity to the Nile also brought us many small flies. In the afternoon it became quite hot and was important to keep hydrated (I’m carrying 4.5 liters which seems to be enough for now, but have another 3 liter bladder I will likely pack in addition if it gets warmer). Our middle day was toughest for me so far on the tour
After this we continued to parallel the Nile. What was different was that we also passed irrigated fields. More settlements and a little more populated. Eventually ended in regional center of Dongola. Still warm in afternoon but only 112km on third day.

The road is quite good with fairly light traffic. A few different things we see along the way:

King of the road are these big buses that go very fast and with horns screetching and blaring. They stop for nothing.
Little van mini-buses go much slower. Covered with Arabic lettering and often a wave.
Local transport seems to be pickup trucks, some with a cab on back and often with many passengers. Good for friedly honks and wave.
Some local box trucks but not much
Donkeys and donkey carts are local field transport. Not much on the road, but we pass them by.
Kids might have bicycles.

So far pretty easy to travel and with occasional “coke stops” as it gets warm.

Dongola is good camping in local zoo (only animals are statues and us). Yesterday was holy day, but town is more lively today. Still enjoying my rest day and getting ready for road ahead.

Day 11, 112km to Dongala

Posted on January 25, 2013 by mev

Glad to have reached Dongola and another rest day. Today was shorter and hence easier than yesterday, though the afternoon still got hot.

This morning TDA held a “team time trial” instead of the normal race. The idea was to organize in groups of four or five and then cycle as quickly as possible, with time determined by the slowest rider. Most groups were geographically arranged, e.g. team Germany or team Holland and team Holland was the quickest in just over 40 minutes. A group of us who weren’t particularly fast but had similar speeds grouped together to form “team slow”. We ran all together and had fun.

After the time trial we were already over halfway to lunch. Just the right spot to refuel. We started seeing more irrigation and towns were larger. Fortunately, the coke stops continued in afternoon and without too much trouble we found ourselves at the de-commissioned “Dongola Zoo”. No real animals here other than us, but some nice statues. It was Friday holy day, so time was somewhat shut down. Tomorrow washing, cleaning and internet.

Day 10, 145km to Nile Camp

Posted on January 24, 2013 by mev

Today was the most challenging ride yet.

It wasn’t so much the distance, which we’ve done before. Instead, the afternoon was just a little warmer than before. Also as we came closer to the Nile, the flies were pretty bad. We’ve been told the timing coincides with flowering cycle of the dates and they weren’t there last year. Hopefully, this also means short lived as well.

This morning the group was up early, with unwritten rule – beat the heat. A pretty fanatical group of people to watch all the headlamps as people are taking down their tents in the dark. I joined them, got my stuff ready and was on the road by 7:45am. Once again, our ride started out well, all long as we didn’t stop (those flies again). We followed the river more closely and also saw more villages. Time for one coke stop and then lunch.

At lunch the fly infestation continued, so didn’t linger. Also temporarily ran out of bread. So I hopped back on the bike, but to no avail as the heat came. My odometer said 41C and decided I wouldn’t look at it further in the afternoon. While we’d had more tailwinds, we also came across some curves and more diagonally into the wind. At 93km one more coke stop and then a slow steady ride to reach camp at 3:20pm. I was beat, but a quick soak in the Nile again helped refresh things.

Day 9, 149km to Nile Camp

Posted on January 23, 2013 by mev

A longer and hotter ride for our first day in Sudan. The roads are very good and much less traffic than Egypt.

It was a new adventure to pack everything and fit it into the locker, but having separate panniers works well since I organize first into the panniers and then fitting the locker (choke point with many people) is just putting them in.

With the time change, I was on the road shortly before 8am. It was cool at first and good riding. We left the immediate Nile area and while parallel to the river, didn’t see it until end of the day. There were a few gradual raised areas and what we were told were mining camps. Some tailwinds helped and I was at lunch stop at 78km.

After lunch it got considerably hotter. My bike odometer said 39C or 40C including some reflected heat. At 90km that was just too inviting as we passed “El Beer” and a coke stop. Alcohol is forbidden in Sudan, so the term is something else. At 120km time for a second coke stop and then I was a bit slow cycling last kilometers to camp at 149km.

A refreshing soak in the Nile felt good, though also noticed some biting flies near the river.

Aswan Ferry, day two

Posted on January 22, 2013 by mev

We’re in Sudan! Both a boring and an eventful day today. We started in the ferry where I had a good sleep in the cabin. Just as I was awakening, Kevin noticed Abu Simbel on the starboard side. Excellent!

Soon we were in Sudanese waters and our closed adjust one our forward. It still took until noon local time before the ship docked and another five hours after that before we had cleared all the customs and disembarkation checks. These included:

Waiting initially until others got off (pretty quick)
All our group being asked to congregate into the dining area. Discovering the area was too cramped so everyone but first 10 sent outside
As my turn was called, receiving two forms to carefully complete. Having them checked by immigration and receiving a yellow disembarkation receipt, a copy of my original form and a form to affix my photo
Finding the person with the stapler, to attach the photo
Being allowed to leave assuming I showed the disembarkation permit, bringing all my gear down to the dock.
Helping load the trucks and then cycling a short km to the customs area
Retrieving the bag, having customs come and place stickers on both bags
Having customs check stickers on the bags, then also put sticker on the bike to check
Riding off to camp

Once we arrived at camp, we got first look at the big overland vehicles and our lockers. Pretty big and impressive and fortunately, all my stuff seems to fit in the locker.

Aswan Ferry, day one

Posted on January 21, 2013 by mev

Today was our day to set off on the ferry for Sudan, a but of a different adventure with some “hurry up and wait” and only 17km of cycling.

We packed up our camp and then waited for our police escort to arrive. The escort was needed to bring us across the Aswan Dam and High Dam and we were cautioned to avoid photos of either dam.

A slow and steady convoy brought us across both dams and then to the port. Different officials tussled with each other as they figured out how to handle the group. For example, one official told us to line up the bikes on side so they could count them while a different official herded us through a narrow gate to count. One wanted us to go through one entryway while another motioned us the other direction. However, all was sorted out soon enough and by 11am we started to board, bikes first.

Not much difficulty to corral all the bikes in one area. We’d reserved first class cabins with two bunks for three people. The idea was that others could go atop the decks.

That worked fairly well, though unfortunately a larger part of the group was chased away from front of the boat only after all places were taken, so it was back to cabins. Fortunately, a few had made cubbyholes in back as well.

They served a meal. I risked it and ate that meal, despite having my own food as well. Finally five hours after we first boarded, and after the ship had been packed even tighter, the horn tooted and we were off.

The boat itself isn’t extremely large, with a bottom area with 2nd class seats, an upper deck with our cabins. On lower deck is also some form of dining area. On top of all decks are the areas packed with boxes and passengers. Our last day in Egypt and on to Sudan.

Aswan Rest Day, a few perceptions of Egypt and trip so far

Posted on January 20, 2013 by mev

Today is a rest day in Aswan. There is a bit of excitement and anticipation as the group prepares to cross our first border. The land borders are tightly controlled and not open for public transport. Instead, there is a ferry that travels once per week on Lake Nassar, a journey of approximatly 16 hours by water – with additional time for loading and unloading. Today is a day for looking around the old markets in town as well as along the Nile waterfront. Also a chance to buy some food and water for the ferry. Looking forward to Sudan and expect it to be more remote than Egypt. Not sure how often will be able to update things in real time, so may write in journal book first and later post.

I’ve now spent a little over two weeks in Egypt and traveled a little less than 1000km through the country. Not enough to get a good perspective on things, but following are some of my impressions so far:

It is almost the two year anniversary of the 25th of January revolution. The Egypt we see is much different than that on TV screens showing mobs in Tahir Square. Even when we visited the Square it was a lazy afternoon with a few tents pitched and folks including tourists wandering by. I’ve felt safe and comfortable in my travels.
The tourist industry has been hit hard. This is supposed to be peak season, but boats are anchored idle on the Nile near Luxor and cart/horse drivers troll for rides. People also tell us this as we visit tourist areas, e.g. our hotel in Luxor prepared rooms that hadn’t been used for a while. Some of the places suchj as Temple of Karnak are pretty impressive to see, and shame that more aren’t visiting.
People are friendly and helpful and curious. Some of this is a generic “people are people” statement, but I also get a genuine sense of providing assistance and trying to be helpful to others. It is occasionally an awkward spot at end, as often some renumeration is requested, as we work this out. However, independent of these situations, e.g. with TDA Egyptian riders, one sees both a sense of pride with country and genuine way of helping w/o renumeration.
Kids in the little towns are over enthusiastic. We’ve been cautioned to watch for ones with stones or pulling off bike, but not much seen other than enthusiastic kids. Some of the other riders have seen more, but I’ve generally ridden steadily and a bit of a “no nonsense” approach and except for steering from someone on road or flinching if someone fakes a throw – haven’t had much. Not sure if being a large rider helps here.
We’ve been carefully chaperoned, both with Egyptian police and an occasional ambulance. We also have security with us. A combination of TDA and Egyptian set up is behind making this a safe trip.
Egypt is dry. Large cycling through desert areas. Even Nile strip is green where irrigated and otherwise very dry and dusty.

The biggest thing I want to do more as I travel through additional countries is “break out of the zone” of flying from camp to camp, and instead find additional ways of seeing and interacting with locals. I’ve done some and found that among the more enjoyable parts.

Now also a few perceptions of TDA so far. Overall the trip is well run and well organized. There is big part of logistics to travel with such a large team, keep bicycles and people healthy and pretty challenging places. Some of the staff is also new, though everyone finds what works for them. It has been said that this is also a “social experiment” to travel so closely with ~60 others camping and visiting in close proximity. That process is still continuing though there is some fun in traveling. The trip can become fairly easy where mostly one needs to pack up, ride and otherwise many things are assisted. That is nice, though also still want to find ways to escape that bubble as described above.

Also in closing, should also point out that I’m having fun 🙂

Here are also a few photos from Aswan

The week ahead starting in Sudan

Typical downtown shops, multiple layers with people living up top.

Line at the butcher shop at the market.

Go AMD! Small computer shop complete with AMD logos.

Day 8, 113km to Aswan

Posted on January 19, 2013 by mev

Today was a slightly tougher and also warmer ride. However, the morning in particular we had some fun explorations.

Our campsite was next to a dusty soccer field in Idfu. By 5am, the minarets were calling out to prayer. Not long thereafter, time to wake up and pack everything together for the ride.

Once across the Nile, we had ~10km of road construction. I went very carefully and slowly and much of the group passed me. So ended up with group of five: one Australian, one Canadian, one German, a New Zealander and myself. Often the group mixes together more on speed than language, though for some whose first language isn’t English it can take more work to keep translating.

Our route went through multiple small towns again. Kids were a bit calmer. The irrigated area was a bit narrower, so often the town side was dusty and perhaps some fields closer to the water. We also went across some low hills.

At 45km a brief coke stop with curious Egyptians. However, highlight of the morning was coming across a large market at 50km. Freshly slaughtered goat, live chickens, cauliflower, tomoatoes and others all to be had. We traded going into the market area. I also spent some time interacting with the kids. I had an Egyptian rider teach me the first few Arabic number pronunciations, so now the kids are helping me with the rest.

After a fairly long stop, we rode to lunch being almost last ones there. It crossed a busy zone. After lunch rode alone and last bits into Aswan city. The city was well built up, but instructions not too difficult to follow. A brief chance to walk along the Nile and otherwise set for a rest day.