Day 70, 151km to Livingston (Victoria Falls)


Today another ride through the savannah. The grades were gentle, the ride was long. There were plenty of trees, though not much to shade the road. Also, not as many broader views as when we had fewer trees. The road continued to be smooth and the last 80km into Livingston was especially smooth. The shoulders were paved, but the “good” pavement width would vary and hence we would sometimes ride in shoulder and sometimes to the right line. The trucks for the most part gave us room in this arrangement and traffic wasn’t extremely heavy.

I could still feel effects of the longer ride the day before and particular my right leg was a little more swollen and
felt more sore than the left. However, it was cool riding and with the fairly flat terrain, the riding went quickly to lunch. We crossed one town at 20km and another at 68km. The first was still early to stop and second was close enough to our lunch at 75km so kept going.

At lunch, decided to keep it simple and ride the lunch truck after lunch. After this the road continued smooth and
slightly downhill though reports from riders was that it also got pretty warm without many good stops. So probably the right choice for me.

In the afternoon we had second “bike donation ceremony” (the first was in Arusha). TDA is not only a bike tour company but also has an associated foundation. Each full tour rider contributes fees for one bicycle to donate and in addition some will also raise money specifically for TDA foundation (if you are so inclined, see TDA web site for details). In Zambia TDA contributed a total of 50 bicycles to the local school district. The schools loan them to children as a way of making it easier to travel to/from school and hence improve attendance. The overall ceremony was interesting to watch and included presentation from local kids and talks from local dignitaries.

Otherwise, we’re just outside Livingstone and Victoria Falls for two rest days. My agenda is still mostly on the “rest” side of the equation, but will at least get a chance to be a tourist and visit the falls as well.

Day 69, 181km to Ruze Chalets

A long ride today but flatter than rides we’ve had before. The terrain was mostly similar all day very gentle
hills and occasional long slow uphill grades but nothing very steep up or down. I could stay in my large
chainring for most all the day. This is good since middle chainring still skipped and slipped some. The road
was also smooth, with a shoulder that sometimes was wider and sometimes narrow (still paved but different surfacing
so would ride in the road). This mostly worked with traffic, though occasionally oncoming traffic would try to pass
in way that forced us to the shoulder. Photo below shows one example of the seed plots we occasionally came across
trying different seeds.

There were two larger towns to cross today, one at 40km and one at 140km. Otherwise some small towns we crossed. I was on the road early and cruising over 20km/hour which is good pace for me. I came through Manze town at 40km and then made it to lunch by 75km and 10am. Most of this was savannah with lower trees and not much in way of views. This meant another 107km left for the afternoon but still feeling strong and not too late so seemed like a reasonable ride. The next town at 94km included the photo below that showed prizes offered by local telephone company including winning a cow or winning fertilizer.

I kept going with the stops at 94km and then at 143km and kept a steady pace. This got me in to camp by 3:45pm. My leg was a little extra sore and otherwise tired, but happy to have a nice long ride for a change. Photo below shows Victor and Theo at one of the coke stops.

Day 68, 157km to soccer field camp

A long ride today, but only two larger climbs. So the riding still went relatively quick. My new chain rode well in the big chainring and also in the small chainring but would skip and slip in the middle chainring.

We left on a busy two lane road headed inbound to center of Lusaka. Fortunately we were ahead of the worst traffic. At 8km we turned to ride through middle of the city and then were “outbound”. It started at three lanes each way and
then slowly narrowed to two lanes each way and by 25km we were down to road with one lane each way. However, traffic
was still heavy and we particularly had to watch for oncoming traffic that would try to pass when not quite safe – or
local bicycles that decided to ride the wrong direction and hence headed for us.

At 50km we passed a larger town that had several chemical plants. At 65km we came through an agricultural inspection
station followed immediately by a turnoff road with sign saying “Livingstone 415”. This would be our route for remaining three days. This road started a bit lumpy but got better later in the day. After the turn off we had some gradual climbing followed by larger climb to lunch at 78km.

In the afternoon we also had one larger climb and mostly flat otherwise. It got warmer and so by 89km and 112km there
were some welcome coke stops. There were also some annoying speed bumps the last 10km but still nice to find camp at our soccer field. Photo below shows both edge of camp and village right next door. There was a soccer game but also at times of intermission some goats were allowed to cross and graze the field.

In the afternoon/evening, a few of the staff participated in an “Iron Chef” competition. The cook (John) gave them
each a “secret ingredient”, namely butternut squash, that needed to be used. Each team made three dishes. Photo
below shows a set of riders picked as judges. Staff put quite a bit of effort into this cooking competition made
more challenging with a ~70 riders to feed and fairly tight time schedules. However food was very tasty and extra
work was appreciated by us hungry riders.



Lusaka rest day

Enjoying a rest day in Lusaka. Catalin replaced my chain and cassette. Talked with medic during clinic hours and the leg continues to improve so should be off antibiotics soon.

After this found my way to the mall about 4km away and used an internet cafe to get the blog photos updated first time in a while. Local transport here is these blue vans. They wait until they are full and then go to next stop. Costs 3 kwatcha (60 cents) one way to the mall.

Day 67, 104km to Lusaka


Today was a ride to capital of Zambia. We have a rest day here tomorrow. We still have some rolling hills,
but nothing that required my lower gears. I also think we must keep going to drier areas but the heavy dew
last night wasn’t consistent. Fortunately, we haven’t had daytime rains.

Last night was my second turn to do dishes. A few more pots than before but nothing too bad. Overnight some
of the swelling on my leg went down, but I could still feel the leg – so decided to keep taking it easy with
a half day riding today. No pain while riding, though after arriving I could tell I had an active afternoon
at the mall here in Lusaka. Also on ride board in the red heart is a reference to Kevin and Silvia who are
leaving the trip here. They are from Canada and Switzerland, met on the trip and became a close couple. Taking
off from the tour to instead spend time together. Both very nice people (and also very helpful to me when my
leg was so painful) and I wish them the best together.

The photo below shows the lunch truck in early morning light. When you take the truck to lunch, it ends up being
a 5:45am breakfast and a 8:30am lunch. The road was smooth except for a few instances of speed bumps. A little
more traffic on the road but overall polite, except for the occasional honk of “get over to the left”.

We came through a few small towns and also the vegetables in picture below. Red row is tomatoes all neatly
arranged. Temperature was almost ideal as I cycled the last bits (45km of 104km cycled today) and then into
town. The last kilometers the road became a divided road with two lanes each way. After that saw our hotel
on the side and came in to get a room.

My thermarest mattress had developed a slow leak at the school for the deaf in Ethiopia. Most likely I camped
on top of some thorns. On rider, Lindsey, was leaving here so I purchases his thermarest, will be nice to sleep
entire night in luxury. Afterwards, I caught local transport (3 kwatcha) to the mall and did an investigation
of what is here. After that, back to rest my leg as well as type in some things for internet upload as looks
like might finally have some connections here.

Day 66, 124km to school camp

Today a climb away from the Luangwa River and then across some hills. The landscapes in Zambia are still similar with
trees, villages and crops. However, some more hills today.

Our camp last night was all tightly packed. Some of the riders had arranged a floating trip on the river. I stayed
back and read. Overnight, I tried “elevating my leg” by sleeping going downhill in the tent. That worked, though I
still woke up a few times. I also felt the leg some – so decided to try a slightly longer ride but not quite a full day.

Today was expected to be a tough day (“mando” in 2012 edition but changed this year). With this cue, I decided to ride
the easier half. The first half had more climbing as the route came away from the Luangwa River and then through some
hilly terrain. I took the truck to lunch and we still had some hills and climbing but only a few I needed to go into my lower gears. I’m also finding that the flatter terrain is probably as low impact as walking – but the hilly bits where I push a bit harder on the leg.

We had mostly descent the first 10km from lunch and then we came across the village showning in photo below. Ever since Kenya, we’ve had a number of businesses that have big lettering about “investment”. As best I can tell, this is more a description similar to “incorporated” than truly anything to do with outside investment. At this town, one person wanted to sell me a large mellon (5 kwatcha or one dollar) but I was able to explain this would be rather heavy to carry.


After leaving the village we had a somewhat longer and steeper climb in the next 10km and then rolling hills after that. I could definitely tell I was still getting a workout with this ride. It was nice at the 65km mark to see the signs for a Jehovah’s Witness church and behind it and a school our camp. We were camped in flat soccer field but otherwise good spot to pitch the tent.

Day 65, 172 km to Luangwa bridge

A “mando” day today meaning the racers got time bonuses – however also meaning the riding was likely to be longer
or more difficult. My leg was feeling ok, though still swollen. I decided to give it a first try back on the bike.
Plan was pretty simple, get out early and cycle as far as I could before the dinner truck came past. So I organized
things, adjusted/tuned my bike, was first in the breakfast queue and set off as soon as I could.

Nice to be riding again! This was gently rolling terrain. The road wasn’t completely smooth but bumps still not too
bad. We started with some descent and then mostly level/rolling after that. Farms would have the yellow signs with
“Look! Conservation farming pays”, as well as occasional rows with seed lots printed (test rows of genetically modified crops or just different seeds?). Kids would yell different things including “how are you”? I tried different responses but eventually settled on “I’m fine, how are you” and would get responses perhaps 20% of the time.

I got two good hours of cycling in before the truck passed. I was still feeling strong, but wasn’t trying to overachieve on the distance. This got me 35km down the road. The terrain from here in the truck was similar until lunch at 80km. After lunch it seemed like the hills got a bit higher and closer to the road. Looked like potentially prettier but more difficult riding. This brought us to the bridge camp in photo below. Also below that was James coming into camp.


Day 64, 176km to Petauke


After some deliberation, decided to take the truck today. My leg was still swollen, though the pain was considerably
less. One idea was to perhaps already try riding for a bit and see how it goes. The other was to wait just a bit to
avoid risk of prematurely letting the infection gain upper hand again. In the end and with consultation of our medics, caution prevailed. In the end, even if I’d decided my original plan of riding from lunch, it likely wouldn’t have happened, but more on that later.

First photo shows a truck carrying “Chibuku”. This is a local fermented drink based on maize that we’ve seen now in
Zambia and Malawi. It is a whitish color and creamy texture that doesn’t stay in one liquid, hence the cartons all
admonish drinkers to “shake shake”. None of the riders who tried it found it tasteful, so not much of a recommendation
for me to try it either.

Four of us on dinner truck this morning. The Zambian countryside continued with gentle hills – though today would have a few longer ones to bicycle across. We passed mixture of farmland and forest areas occasionally with a bright yellow sign saying “Look! Conservation Farming Pays”, presumably due to soil conservation practices. The terrain, bright sun, puffy white clouds and temperatures seemed ideal for riding.


At 80km was the lunch truck and we stopped and got lunch. Racers had already arrived and a few others were just starting to arrive to lunch. A few other cyclists had just set off from lunch so were barely on the road. After eating lunch, got back to the dinner truck for second leg of the journey when I was told there would be delay and I could go back to lunch area again. Slowly more and more cyclists arrived there including those who set off from lunch originally but were now returning.

Apparently there had been disturbance in town of Katete about 4km ahead. We saw a truck filled with police/soldiers with rifles drive past. We also saw an ambulance go past. One apparent story I heard was the disturbance was related to a past murder that towns people felt hadn’t been adequately investigated. [Update: This link provides news report of the incident: Katete Riots]

After short while, the all clear sounded and we were allowed to continue. Our dinner truck filled up to eight cyclists –
since prospects of ~100km more riding now had an hour less of time and some were also still concerned on potential
unrest. The remaining cyclists went ahead and were encouraged to ride together in a group. We followed a bit behind
including stopping briefly to assist two riders with major bike issues: one with a crank arm that had loosened and
another with a derailleur that no longer worked. As we rode through town, there were armed soldiers/police perhaps
every 100 meters or so carrying their rifles.

Up ahead a short distance we saw the entire group of cyclists collected together. They were waiting for all riders to
arrive and then after that the entire group did the next few kilometers in a convoy fashion. Up front was a truck filled with Zambian soldiers. Following was the entire group of cyclists and following were the TDA vehicles. Slowly rode past the worst trouble spots including seeing areas with active detainees. In this stretch we did hear a few gun shots behind the group, though it was unclear their origin or target and certainly didn’t seem to affect anything we saw.

After this few kilometers of convoy, the police escort pulled to side and let the group then proceed at individual levels. We also didn’t see police after this point. So still not clear on exact issues at Katete though felt overall it was handled with reasonable care for our larger crew.

We were then back to riding across on good road the remaining ~90km. Similar scenery as before. Arrived at a nice
lodge area. Rooms weren’t too expensive and so decided to splurge just a bit with a room and chance for a healing rest.

Day 63, 152km to Chipata


Today a border crossing into Zambia. A longer ride but the hills seemed to flatten with 800m of climbing spread through
152km.

My leg was hurting much less, but on consultation with the medics, decided better to let things really heal rather than prematurely jump back on the bike and re-infect everything. The leg was also still visibly swollen and it did hurt if I stood for too long.

Early in the morning, I returned back to the TDA camp site with few others. I packed the tent I had left there, loaded the truck and then listed to the post-rest-day rider meeting. We also have seven new sectional riders so a pretty full contingent here.


The truck drove out of town and then a quick stopover at 80km at lunch truck before continuing to the border at 115km.
Here my yellow fever registration number was recorded, stamps made and $50 visa paid for Zambia. Also exchanged money
with some money exchangers. There was brief hestation here since Zambia is changing currency with the old kwatcha valued at 5400 for one US $ and the new one at 5.4 for one us $. So didn’t want to end up with the wrong bills – but all seems to have been done fairly.

Zambia already felt more prosperous than Malawi. Tin roofs on houses, satellite dishes and nice looking private cars
are a few examples. The camp was also a nice spot where set up the tent and read in the afternoon.

Lilongwe Rest Days


Resting hard in Lilongwe 🙂 We have a double rest day here in the capital of Malawi. Despite being capital and city of ~600,000 it is still pretty quiet and spread out.

I had a cut in back of my right leg that was almost healed, but just last day or two before Lilongwe it seemed to get infected. The leg swelled up and was a bit painful to stand or walk. Advice was to stay off it and elevate it. We also stopped by local clinic for blood test and to screen for other things (e.g. malaria) and started a local anti-biotic So I found a hotel close to the TDA camp and read and rested the first day. My legs were still different sizes on first day, but on second day the anti-biotic seems to be helping. Otherwise having quiet restful days in Lilongwe.

Later in day with consultation of our medics, I will likely not ride tomorrow. Leg is getting better but not there yet. First priority it to get that well enough on way to healing but I’m eagerly looking forward to being able to be back on the bike again.

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